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A Dog Can Be Your Best Friend When It Comes to Home Security
Burglar alarms are not the be-all and end-all of home security. There are plenty of other things you can install in your home that will help to stop a burglar from gaining entry ?and many of them are very simple and inexpensive.
The key is to secure the possible points of entry. This means that doors should be made of strong, solid material (definitely not plastic or glass), be properly secured to their hinges and have tamper-resistant locks. Ideally, you should have an extra deadbolt that you put on at night, made from very strong metal.
Windows should be made from toughened glass, preferably double-glazed, so that they are almost impossible to break. Although window locks are relatively uncommon, they help greatly with security, and you should consider installing them. If your house has windows in a position where they can be easily and discreetly accessed from the street , such as basement windows, you should consider putting metal bars on them.
It is also important for your garden to be secure, as far more burglars enter through the back of your house than the front. This means that your fences should be high and have some kind of anti-climbing measures (spikes or anti-climb paint can work well). If you don't like fences, get big hedges instead.
Another thing to consider is getting a dog ?surprisingly effective against burglars, who don't generally want to mess with dogs if they can avoid it. For this strategy to be more effective, put up a 慴eware of the dog?sign. Smaller dogs are not so great for this because they are not generally scary ?something like a big German Shepherd works best, not only because of their size, but because of their strong guard instincts that cause them to be hostile to strangers.
The article is collected by a house painter who's also good at landscape design and repair solar penel.
Best timber to make a bass amp + gear transport case from?
I want to build a road case type thing for my amplifier and bass gear, and it will basically be a bottom compartment to fit the amp, simple box with a latch on and off, non hinged front, with a top compartment, which will house my leads, power cables, FX pedal, etc, and this will also be a latch on and off deal. I want it to be relatively strong, but light. Appearance doesn't matter, I will be covering it in carpet on the outside and foam on the inside anyways (any suggestions here would be appreciated too). Also how should I construct it (join it, should i use any paints or lacquers, etc). I have also designed it so that there are as few components as possible, to try and make life easier ( I have no way of showing any pictures of my designs or anything). Im a metal person by training, so i ain't much good with timber, but I still have a fair idea of what i'm doing, and I have access to a good workshop and tools to build it, I just need the know how.
Thanks in advance
I would use kiln-dried 2x2 (actually about 1.5" x 1.5") for a box frame and cover with 1/4" or 3/16" plywood. I wouldn't make a separate compartment in the top; instead, I would make it wide enough to accomodate the gear, and put a divider panel between it and the amp. I would definitely hinge the top on the back with heavy "no sag" hinges (they have plastic bearings between the metal, nice tight action), with latches on the front and maybe sides of the lid. I would make the top out of a single piece of 3/4" ply, and line the inside with 1' x 1" inset from the edges so that it fit tight on the box when closed. I would avoid using particle board or other manufactured woods like MDF because the strength-to-weight ratio of that stuff is terrible. Seal the wood before covering with something like Kilz primer/sealer. I might even mount a pair of wheels on the amp end and a handle on the other so I could roll it around rather than have to always carry it (I don't know how big your amp is, mine is a beast!)
I gotta add a couple more details - I'd skin the bottom with maybe 1/2" to 3/4" plywood, depending on the size of your amp. Attach ply to frame via 1-5/8" drywall screws every 4". Predrill the screw holes 1/16" through both ply and 2x2, and 1/8" thru the ply only. The right torque should put the screw heads flush. If not, remove screw and add a little countersink.
diesel hauler # 29 and up date on the truck and the custom flip front end i custom made hinges
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